Roofing & Exterior
Private From Every Angle, Handsome From Both Sides
Board-on-board and good-neighbor cedar fencing for the Northwest: overlapping or alternating pickets for true privacy, a finished look on both faces, airflow that lets a fence breathe, and a design that treats the property line like the shared thing it is.
Free inspection & photo report · Fixed, line-item bids· Written workmanship warranty
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- 1,500+ projects completed
- Licensed & bonded in WA, OR & ID
- Written workmanship warranty
Signs to watch
Is this you?
You want privacy without a one-sided fence
A standard privacy fence has a 'good' side and a 'framing' side, and someone gets the rails. Board-on-board and good-neighbor styles finish both faces, so the fence looks intentional from your yard and the neighbor's alike.
The neighbor is sharing the cost or the line
When a fence sits on a shared line, how it looks from both sides is part of the conversation. A two-sided design is the diplomatic answer — nobody's stuck staring at the back of the boards, which is usually what keeps the project moving.
Solid-panel fences in your yard cup and warp
A dead-solid picket line takes the full push of Northwest wind and gives moisture no way to move, so boards cup and warp. Board-on-board's overlap and good-neighbor's gaps let air through while still blocking the view.
You're not certain where the line actually is
Building a two-sided fence on the wrong line is an expensive misunderstanding. Confirming the property line before a post hole is dug settles it for good and keeps a good-neighbor fence actually neighborly.
Your options
Two good sides, built to breathe and to keep the peace
Board-on-board overlaps pickets on alternating sides of the rail so there's no line of sight through the gaps and the fence reads finished from both faces — the most private of the two-sided styles. Good-neighbor (shadowbox) alternates pickets front and back of the rail for a near-identical look on each side with a little more airflow. Both use more material than a single-sided fence, and we'll say so plainly — the two-sided look costs more boards, and that's the honest trade for the finished appearance and the breathing room that keeps cedar from cupping. Underneath either, the part that actually matters is the same as any fence we build: posts set to drain, ground-contact-rated material, and coated hardware that won't bleed rust down your new boards. And before any of it, we confirm the property line, because a neighbor-facing fence in the wrong spot is the opposite of neighborly.
The method
How we do it
- 01
Line, layout, and the neighbor question
We confirm the property line, talk through which side gets what if the line is shared, and lay out the run — plus a utility locate before a single post hole.
- 02
Posts set to drain
Holes to depth, a gravel base so water moves away from the post, concrete set plumb — the step cheap installs skip and the reason their fences lean by year three.
- 03
Board it two-sided, hang gates, walk it
Pickets overlapped or alternated for a finished look on both faces, gates hung to swing true and latch clean, then a walk of the whole line together.
Straight numbers
What a two-sided fence runs
Board-on-board and good-neighbor fences cost more per foot than a single-sided privacy fence because they use noticeably more material — that's the honest trade for a finished look on both sides. Length, height, terrain, gates, and picket style move the number most, and cedar remains the Northwest default for the balance of looks, longevity, and value. Posts, drainage, gates, and haul-off of any old fence are in the number, not add-ons, and we'll price a single-sided option alongside it so you can see the difference plainly.
Where we do this work
Board-on-Board & Good-Neighbor Fences: straight answers
What's the difference between board-on-board and good-neighbor?
Both finish on two sides, but board-on-board overlaps the pickets so there's no gap to see through — it's the more private of the two. Good-neighbor (shadowbox) alternates pickets front and back of the rail with small gaps, so it looks nearly identical from each side and lets more air through. We'll show you both and match the choice to how much privacy versus airflow you want.
Why do these cost more than a regular privacy fence?
Material. Finishing both faces takes noticeably more pickets than a single-sided fence, and board-on-board's overlap uses the most of all. That's the whole trade — you pay for more boards and get a fence that looks intentional from both yards instead of showing someone the rails. We'll price a standard single-sided fence next to it so the difference is clear, no pressure either way.
Do I need to talk to my neighbor first?
If the fence sits on or near the shared line, it's worth a conversation, and it's often where cost-sharing starts. We confirm the actual property line before we dig so the fence goes exactly where it belongs, and a two-sided design means whatever gets agreed, nobody ends up staring at the back of the boards — which is usually what keeps everyone happy.
Do these need a permit?
It depends on height and jurisdiction — many cities allow up to six feet in back without a permit, but the rules and the front-yard limits vary by where you live. We check your jurisdiction, confirm the property line before we dig, and handle any permit that applies so it isn't a problem down the road or at sale time.
Get the board-on-board & good-neighbor fences conversation started.
Free 20-minute inspection. Photo report you keep either way. Zero pressure.