Roofing & Exterior
Keep the Bones. Replace the Boards.
When the framing under your deck is still sound, resurfacing swaps tired boards and rails for new — often composite — at a fraction of a full rebuild. We inspect the structure first, honestly, because new boards on rotten framing help no one.
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Signs to watch
Is this you?
The boards are worn but the deck feels solid
Gray, splintering, or cupped surface boards on a frame that still feels firm underfoot is the classic resurfacing candidate — the part you see is tired while the structure under it may have years left. We confirm that with an inspection, not an assumption.
You're done staining every other summer
If the framing is sound, swapping worn cedar or pine boards for capped composite ends the maintenance cycle without the cost and permitting of a full rebuild. It's the upgrade people mean when they say they want a new deck.
A few boards are soft but the joists look dry
Sometimes only the surface has weathered while the joists beneath stayed protected. That's the case redecking is made for — but soft boards can also mean moisture reached the framing, so we look underneath before promising a resurface.
The railings are dated or loose
Old wood rails that wobble or look tired often get replaced along with the boards — a chance to upgrade to composite, aluminum, or cable while the surface is open, and to re-anchor posts to sound framing.
Your options
Resurface when the frame is sound, rebuild when it isn't
Resurfacing keeps your existing footings, posts, beams, and joists and replaces the wear layer: new decking (capped composite is the PNW default), new or upgraded railings, and fresh fasteners. Where the framing is exposed we add joist protection — self-adhesive tape over the joist tops — so the new boards last as long as they should and the frame stays dry underneath. But the whole approach depends on the structure being trustworthy, so we inspect the ledger, posts, beams, and joists in person before we quote. If the framing is too far gone — rotted joists, a suspect ledger, undersized structure — we'll show you why in pictures and price a rebuild instead, because facing new boards over failing framing hides a hazard, it doesn't fix one.
The method
How we do it
- 01
Structural inspection first
Before anything, we check the ledger, posts, beams, and joists — the parts that carry weight and drop decks when they fail. Photos of everything, and an honest verdict on whether the frame can carry a resurface or needs a rebuild.
- 02
Scope, quote, and material choice
If the bones are sound, we quote the resurface: decking, railings, and any joist repair or protection. You pick the board and rail materials, and approve the fixed price before a board comes up.
- 03
Strip, protect, redeck, and rail
Old boards off, framing re-inspected with the surface open, joist tops taped, new decking laid with hidden fasteners where the material allows, railings set to sound posts, then a walk of the finished deck together.
Straight numbers
What resurfacing actually costs
Resurfacing costs meaningfully less than a full rebuild because the structure, footings, and permitting stay in place — you're paying for boards, rails, fasteners, and labor, not a new foundation. Composite decking costs more up front than wood and earns it back in maintenance; railing choice and any joist repair found once the boards are off move the number. We quote a fixed price on the resurface and, if the inspection turns up framing that can't be trusted, we'll price the rebuild honestly alongside it so you can compare.
Where we do this work
Deck Resurfacing & Redecking: straight answers
How do I know if my deck can be resurfaced or needs a full rebuild?
It comes down to the framing. If the ledger, posts, beams, and joists are sound, resurfacing is usually the smart call — you keep the structure and replace the wear layer. If those members are rotted, undersized, or the ledger is suspect, a rebuild is the safer path. We inspect the structure in person and won't recommend facing new boards over framing we don't trust, because that hides a hazard instead of fixing it.
Can I put composite over my existing wood frame?
Often yes, if the frame is sound and the joists are spaced right for the composite you choose — some boards call for tighter joist spacing, especially on a diagonal or a stair. We confirm the spacing and the framing condition during the inspection. Where needed we add joists or blocking, and we tape the joist tops so the frame stays protected under the new surface.
Why tape the joists if you're covering them anyway?
Because covering them is exactly why they're at risk. New decking traps water on the joist top where it can sit and rot the framing you're keeping. A self-adhesive joist tape sheds that water and protects the structure so your resurfaced deck doesn't fail from underneath in a few wet winters. It's cheap insurance on the part of the deck you can't easily replace again.
Can I upgrade the railings while you're at it?
That's one of the best reasons to resurface. With the surface open and posts accessible, it's the right moment to move from tired wood to composite, aluminum, or cable railing and re-anchor everything to sound framing. Railing height and baluster spacing are governed by local code and vary by jurisdiction, so we build to your area's requirements and verify them for your project.
Get the deck resurfacing & redecking conversation started.
Free 20-minute inspection. Photo report you keep either way. Zero pressure.