Roofing & Exterior
Fences That Don't Lean, Rot, or Wander Off the First Wet Winter
Cedar, vinyl, and ornamental fencing built for Northwest ground — posts set to drain, ground-contact-rated framing, and lines that stay straight after the rains.
Free inspection & photo report · Fixed, line-item bids· Written workmanship warranty
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- 1,500+ projects completed
- Licensed & bonded in WA, OR & ID
- Written workmanship warranty
Signs to watch
Is this you?
The old fence is leaning
Posts rot at the soil line first. A fence that leans or wobbles is almost always failing underground, not up top.
Boards are cupping and graying
Cheap or unsealed pickets cup, split, and gray fast in PNW wet-dry cycles. Wood grade and how the posts are set decide how it ages.
You need privacy or a dog-and-kid-safe yard
A solid fence is the cheapest square footage you'll ever add — private, usable outdoor space without the cost of an addition.
Selling, or the neighbors finally agreed
A clean, straight fence line reads as a cared-for home and settles the property-line question for good.
Your options
Materials that respect the wet ground
Western red cedar is the Northwest default: naturally rot- and insect-resistant, built in dog-ear, flat-top, or board-on-board for full privacy. Vinyl where you want zero maintenance and a crisp white line; ornamental aluminum or steel where you want to keep a view or an open feel; chain link where function leads. Under all of it, the part that actually matters: posts set in concrete with a gravel base for drainage, ground-contact-rated posts, and hot-dipped or coated hardware that won't bleed rust streaks down your new boards.
The method
How we do it
- 01
Line, permit, and utility locate
We confirm the property line, pull any permit the jurisdiction requires, and call in a utility locate before a single post hole — what's underground is ours to sort out, not yours.
- 02
Posts set to drain
Holes below frost line, a gravel base so water moves away from the post, and concrete set plumb — the step cheap installs skip, and the reason their fences lean by year three.
- 03
Panels, gates, walkthrough
Framing and pickets in graded material, gates hung to swing true and latch clean, then a walk of the whole line together. Most residential fences: 2–5 days.
Straight numbers
Fence pricing
Most cedar privacy fencing runs $35–$65 per linear foot installed — a typical residential project lands $4,500–$12,000 depending on length, height, terrain, and gates. Vinyl and composite run 20–40% more up front and give it back in maintenance; ornamental aluminum sits in that same upper range; chain link is the value end. Posts, drainage, gates, and haul-off of the old fence are in the number, not add-ons.
Where we do this work
Fence Installation: straight answers
How long does a cedar fence last in the Northwest?
Set right, 15–20 years for the posts and structure. The pickets weather to a silver-gray in a few seasons unless you seal them, but that's cosmetic — a rotted post is what ends a fence, so that's where we spend the extra care.
Do I need a permit or my neighbor's sign-off for a fence?
Height limits and permit rules vary by city — many allow up to 6 feet in back and 3–4 in front without a permit, but not all. We check your jurisdiction, confirm the property line before we dig, and handle any permit so it's not a problem at sale time.
Cedar, vinyl, or ornamental — what should I pick?
Cedar for classic looks and value, vinyl for zero maintenance and a bright clean line, ornamental metal to keep a view or an open feel, chain link where it's purely functional. We'll walk your yard and price the ones that fit — no upsell to the most expensive option.
Get the fence installation conversation started.
Free 20-minute inspection. Photo report you keep either way. Zero pressure.