Roofing & Exterior
Water Finds Every Gap. We Find Them First.
Sealing the seams, trim, and joints where water gets into a wall — the right sealant matched to the joint, and left open where the wall is designed to drain. The small gaps are where the expensive damage starts.
Free inspection & photo report · Fixed, line-item bids· Written workmanship warranty
- ★ 4.9 · 52+ Google reviews
- 1,500+ projects completed
- Licensed & bonded in WA, OR & ID
- Written workmanship warranty
Signs to watch
Is this you?
Cracked, split, or pulled-away caulk
Old caulk gets brittle and lets go at exactly the joints it was sealing — trim, corners, window frames. Once it splits, it's not just failing to keep water out, it's holding it in the gap. Failed caulk is a common first entry point for wall rot.
Gaps around windows, doors, and trim
The seams where different materials meet — siding to trim, trim to window, board to board — are where water probes hardest in a wet climate. Open or failed joints at those transitions let it in a little at a time until the sheathing behind pays for it.
Drafts, or dark stains below a joint
A draft you can feel or a stain running down from a seam is water and air finding a path they shouldn't have. The stain is the wall showing you where the gap is — and how long it's been getting through.
About to paint and want the seal to last
Caulking is part of a proper prep before painting — but the wrong sealant or a gap left unsealed undercuts the whole coat. Done right, it's the difference between a paint job that sheds water and one that traps it.
Your options
The right sealant for the joint — and knowing where not to seal
Caulk isn't one product and every gap isn't meant to be sealed. Joints that move with heat and moisture need a flexible sealant that stretches instead of cracking; different substrates and paintable situations call for different chemistry. Just as important is knowing where NOT to caulk: weep gaps under windows, the bottom edges of siding boards, and other designed drainage paths let water that gets behind the surface back out. Seal those and you trap water in the wall — the exact damage you were trying to prevent. We seal what should be sealed and leave the drainage alone.
The method
How we do it
- 01
Find the gaps that matter
We work the trim, windows, corners, and penetrations, checking every joint that's supposed to be keeping water out — and identifying the weep gaps and drainage paths that are supposed to stay open.
- 02
Remove the failed sealant and prep the joint
Old brittle caulk comes out and the joint gets cleaned — new sealant over failed sealant doesn't bond and doesn't last. A clean, sound joint is what makes the new bead hold.
- 03
Seal with the matched sealant, drainage left open
Apply the right sealant for each joint, tooled for a proper bond and a clean line, and deliberately leave weep gaps and designed drainage paths open so the wall can still shed the water that gets behind it.
Straight numbers
What caulking and weatherproofing depends on
Cost tracks the linear footage of joints, how much failed caulk has to be dug out and cleaned before resealing, access and height, and the sealant type the joints call for. A tune-up of a few failing seams is a small job; a house where the caulk is brittle everywhere and pulling away is a full pass. When it's part of a prep before painting, it folds into that scope. Either way it's cheap next to the wall repair it prevents when water's been getting through a bad joint for years.
Where we do this work
Caulking & Weatherproofing: straight answers
Isn't caulking a job I can do myself with a tube from the store?
You can seal an obvious gap — but the two things that decide whether it lasts are picking the right sealant for the joint and knowing which gaps to leave open. The common DIY mistakes are using a rigid caulk on a joint that moves and sealing the weep gaps that are supposed to drain. Get either wrong and you can trap water instead of stopping it.
Why would you leave some gaps open on purpose?
Because a wall is designed to let water that gets behind the surface drain back out. Weep gaps under windows and the bottom edges of siding are drainage paths, not mistakes. Caulking them shut traps water in the wall and rots the sheathing — the exact damage sealing is meant to prevent. Knowing where not to caulk is half the job.
Do you have to remove the old caulk first?
On failed caulk, yes. New sealant over cracked, brittle, or pulling-away caulk bonds to the old bead, not the joint, and lets go with it. We dig out the failed material and clean the joint so the new sealant grips sound surfaces. Where the existing caulk is still sound and bonded, we leave it and seal what needs it.
Will caulking stop my wall from leaking?
It stops the leaks that come through failed joints — and a lot of them do. But if water's entering through a flashing detail or rotted area, sealant alone won't fix that, and we'll tell you so rather than caulk over a problem that needs real repair. When the leak really is a bad joint, sealing it right is exactly the fix. When it isn't, we point you at what actually is.
Get the caulking & weatherproofing conversation started.
Free 20-minute inspection. Photo report you keep either way. Zero pressure.