Roofing & Exterior
The First Thing People See — and the First Thing the Weather Hits
Fiberglass, steel, and wood entry doors with sidelights, transoms, and real hardware — replaced for security, weather, and curb appeal. Set plumb, flashed, and sealed so the Northwest rain stays outside where it belongs.
Free inspection & photo report · Fixed, line-item bids· Written workmanship warranty
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- 1,500+ projects completed
- Licensed & bonded in WA, OR & ID
- Written workmanship warranty
Signs to watch
Is this you?
A draft or daylight around the closed door
Feel air or see light around a shut front door and the weatherstripping, threshold, or the whole slab is done — and it's leaking heat and inviting water every rainy month.
Water staining or rot at the threshold or jamb
The bottom of an entry takes the worst of wind-driven rain. Staining, soft wood, or a swollen jamb means water is already getting behind the frame — flashing and threshold work, not another coat of paint.
A lock that no longer feels secure
A warped slab, a worn strike, or a door that has to be lifted to latch isn't just annoying — it's a security gap. Real security lives in the whole assembly, not just the deadbolt.
A tired door that dates the whole house
The entry sets the tone for the entire exterior. A new door — with sidelights or a transom — changes the face of the house for less than almost any other project.
Your options
Doors chosen for weather, security, and the face of the house
Insulated fiberglass that won't rot, warp, or rust and holds its finish through our wet-dry swings — the default for most Northwest homes. Steel for a secure, budget-friendly slab, understanding it can dent and eventually rust at the edges. Real wood where the architecture earns it and you'll maintain the finish. Sidelights and transoms bring daylight into the entry and widen the whole composition; multi-point locks, reinforced strikes, and quality deadbolts make the assembly hard to force. Under all of it, the work that keeps water out: proper flashing, a correctly detailed threshold and sill, and insulation and sealing around the frame — the invisible part that separates a door that lasts from one that leaks in three winters.
The method
How we do it
- 01
Measure and spec
Every opening measured, swing and threshold checked, sidelights and hardware confirmed, and the unit ordered to fit — no shimming an off-size slab into a rough opening and calling it done.
- 02
Install, flash, and seal
Old unit out, opening inspected for rot, new door set plumb and square, threshold detailed, flashed, insulated, and sealed — then the strike reinforced and the hardware hung true.
- 03
Operation walkthrough
We open, close, lock, and deadbolt the door with you before we sign off. It should swing clean, latch without lifting, and seal tight against the weather.
Straight numbers
Entry door pricing without the pressure
Cost depends on material and configuration — a single insulated fiberglass slab sits well below a wide unit with sidelights and a transom. What moves the number: fiberglass vs. steel vs. wood, glass and hardware packages, size and sidelights, and whether we find rot in the opening once the old door is out. Fixed bids in writing, and we flag any rot up front so it isn't a mid-install surprise.
Where we do this work
Entry Door Replacement: straight answers
Fiberglass, steel, or wood for an entry door here?
Fiberglass for most Northwest homes — it won't rot, warp, or rust, and it holds its finish against our wet-dry cycles, including convincing wood-grain looks. Steel is secure and a strong value but can dent and eventually rust at the edges. Real wood is beautiful on the right house as long as you'll maintain the finish. We'll show you all three against your actual entry.
Can a new entry door really make the house more secure?
Yes — a solid insulated slab in a properly anchored frame, with a reinforced strike and a quality deadbolt, is far harder to force than a hollow or racked old door in a worn jamb. Security lives in the whole assembly — slab, frame, hardware, and how it's fastened into the opening — which is exactly what we install as a unit.
Can I add sidelights or a transom to my entry?
Often, yes — but adding glass beside or above the door usually means enlarging the rough opening, which is framing work. We'll measure the wall, tell you what widening the opening involves, and spec the sidelights or transom so the finished entry looks intentional, not squeezed in.
Why does flashing matter so much on a front door?
Because the entry takes wind-driven rain head-on, and water that gets behind the frame rots the framing and the floor inside. Proper flashing, a correctly detailed threshold, and sealing around the frame are what keep that water outside. A beautiful door installed without them is just a nicer-looking leak.
Get the entry door replacement conversation started.
Free 20-minute inspection. Photo report you keep either way. Zero pressure.