Roofing & Exterior
The Details That Finish the House — and Take the Weather First
Corner boards, window and door casings, belly bands, column and beam wraps, and decorative details do more than dress up your exterior — they're joints in the wall where water wants in. We build and repair exterior trim to shed water and last, in materials matched to how long you want to stop thinking about it.
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Signs to watch
Is this you?
Rot at the bottom of trim and corner boards
Trim rots from the bottom up and the back out, where water collects at joints and end grain. Soft corners at the base of a corner board or the sill of a window casing mean the joint stopped shedding water — repainting the face won't stop it.
Split, cracked, or pulling-away casings
Wood trim moves with the seasons, and when a joint opens or a casing pulls off the wall, it turns into a funnel that channels water behind the trim and into the wall. The gap is small; the damage behind it usually isn't.
Peeling, checking, or a repaint that won't hold
When exterior trim won't hold paint anymore, the wood underneath is often saturated or breaking down. Another coat is money spent hiding the problem — the fix is repairing or replacing the trim and priming it right so paint has something sound to grip.
You want architectural detail that lasts
Belly bands, column wraps, beam wraps, and decorative trim make a house look finished — but in this climate, detail that isn't built to shed water becomes detail that rots. Done right, it's the character of the house; done wrong, it's a maintenance list.
Your options
Trim that dresses the house and defends the wall
We build and repair the full range of exterior trim — corner boards, window and door casings, belly bands and water tables, column and beam wraps, frieze and rake trim, and decorative details that give a house its character. Every piece is detailed to shed water: joints backed and sealed, top edges flashed or sloped so water runs off instead of sitting, and end grain primed and protected where rot always starts. We work in primed cedar and finger-jointed wood where you want traditional wood, and in PVC and fiber-cement trim where you want to stop repainting and never rot again. Where trim has already gone soft, we probe to see how far the rot ran, cut back to sound material, and repair or replace — and we look at what let the water in, because trim rots for a reason. The result is detail that finishes the house and actually protects the wall behind it, not just decoration on borrowed time.
The method
How we do it
- 01
Assess the trim and the joints
We probe for rot at the joints, bases, and end grain where it starts, check how each piece is shedding — or holding — water, and look for what's wetting it. Photos of what we find before anything comes off.
- 02
Fixed-price scope
You see exactly what gets repaired versus replaced, in what material, and how we're detailing it to shed water and hold paint — approved in writing before we start.
- 03
Build, flash, prime, and finish
New trim cut and fitted, joints backed and flashed to drain, all sides and end grain primed before install, and the detail matched to the house. Before/after photos for your records.
Straight numbers
What exterior trim and carpentry costs
It ranges widely because the work does — a single rotted casing repair, a full wrap of corner boards and window trim, and custom column or beam wraps are very different numbers. The drivers are how much trim is involved, the height and access, how much rot has to be cut back and traced, and whether you choose wood or maintenance-free PVC and fiber-cement. Wood costs less up front and costs it back in repainting and eventual rot; the composites cost more now and end the cycle. Because trim work usually rides alongside a roof, siding, or window project, bundling it saves the second mobilization — ask for the combined number, and we'll quote it in writing before anything starts.
Where we do this work
Exterior Trim & Carpentry: straight answers
Can you match my existing trim profile, or do I have to redo all of it?
We can usually match the profile — corner-board width, casing style, band details — so a repair or a new piece reads as original, not patched. If a profile is discontinued we mill or build up an equivalent. You don't have to redo sound trim to make a repair blend; matching it is part of the job.
Should I use PVC or fiber-cement trim instead of wood?
Often worth it on the pieces that take the most weather — corner boards, window sills and casings, and anything near the ground or the roof edge. PVC and fiber-cement don't rot and hold paint far longer than wood. We'll price both honestly; wood looks and works great when it's maintained, and the composites are for when you want to stop maintaining it.
Do you build column wraps, beam wraps, and decorative details, or just replace what's rotted?
Both. We wrap columns and beams, build belly bands and water tables, and add or rebuild decorative trim as part of an exterior's character — not only rot repair. The one rule we hold to is that every piece has to shed water, because detail that traps it becomes tomorrow's rot. We build it to look right and last.
Why does my trim keep rotting in the same spots?
Because those spots are where water collects and can't escape — open joints, unprimed end grain, and top edges with no slope or flashing. Trim rots from the joints and the back, not the painted face, so replacing a board without correcting the detail that trapped the water just resets the clock. We fix why it rotted, then rebuild it to drain.
Get the exterior trim & carpentry conversation started.
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