Roofing & Exterior
The Fence You Never Have to Stain, Seal, or Repaint
Privacy and picket vinyl fencing for Northwest yards — steel- or aluminum-reinforced rails, posts set to drain, and a crisp line that hoses clean instead of graying out.
Free inspection & photo report · Fixed, line-item bids· Written workmanship warranty
- ★ 4.9 · 52+ Google reviews
- 1,500+ projects completed
- Licensed & bonded in WA, OR & ID
- Written workmanship warranty
Signs to watch
Is this you?
You're done maintaining a wood fence
Vinyl doesn't rot, doesn't need staining, and won't bleed rust or gray out. For a lot of homeowners, ending the repaint-and-reseal cycle is the whole reason to switch.
You want a crisp, clean line that stays white
Quality vinyl holds its color and hoses clean — no silvering, no green algae streaks that a pressure wash won't lift. It reads as new far longer than wood does.
The last vinyl fence sagged or blew apart
Cheap vinyl fails two ways: rails sag because there's no internal reinforcement, and panels pop loose in wind because the posts weren't set for the load. Both are install and spec problems, not a fault of the material.
A panel cracked or a section came loose
Vinyl is repairable — a cracked panel or a dislodged rail can usually be swapped without rebuilding the run, as long as the line and posts are still sound underneath.
Your options
The install and reinforcement that separate good vinyl from cheap vinyl
We install privacy and picket vinyl in the standard color options — white, tan, and the wood-look grains — from lines with steel or aluminum inserts in the bottom rails so gates and long spans don't sag over time. Wind is the real test in the Northwest, so we spec panel style and post spacing to the exposure and set ground-contact posts in concrete over a gravel base to drain, the same as we do for wood. The material is maintenance-free, but the install isn't automatic: routed posts, reinforced rails, and proper post depth are what keep vinyl from becoming the sagging, blown-apart fence that gives it a bad name. Cleaning is a hose and mild soap — we'll show you the two spots that actually collect grime.
The method
How we do it
- 01
Line, permit, and utility locate
We confirm the property line, pull any permit the city requires, and call in a utility locate before we dig — what's underground is ours to sort out, not yours.
- 02
Posts set to drain, sized to the wind
Ground-contact posts set in concrete over a gravel base, spaced and depth-set for your exposure so panels don't work loose — the difference between vinyl that lasts and vinyl that rattles apart.
- 03
Panels, gates, walkthrough
Reinforced rails and panels snapped and secured, gates hung to swing true and latch clean, then a walk of the whole line together. Most residential runs: 2–4 days.
Straight numbers
Vinyl fence pricing
Vinyl typically runs 20–40% more up front than a comparable cedar fence and gives it back in maintenance you never do — no stain, no seal, no board replacement. A typical residential project lands in the same broad range as premium cedar depending on length, height, style, and gates. Reinforced rails and wind-rated spec cost a little more than bargain vinyl and are the reason ours doesn't sag. Posts, drainage, gates, and haul-off of the old fence are in the number, not add-ons.
Where we do this work
Vinyl Fences: straight answers
Does vinyl fencing hold up in Northwest wind?
Yes, when it's installed for it. Wind failures come from under-set posts and un-reinforced rails, not the vinyl itself. We spec panel style and post spacing to your exposure and set posts to drain and hold — a properly installed vinyl fence rides out the same storms a wood one does.
Will it turn yellow or brittle over time?
Quality vinyl is UV-stabilized and stays white for decades; the yellowing and cracking you've seen is usually bargain material with no UV package. We install from lines built for the long haul and are upfront about the grade you're getting.
Can a damaged vinyl panel be repaired, or does the whole run go?
Usually just the panel. If a section cracks or a rail pops loose but the posts and line are sound, we can swap the affected pieces without tearing out the run. Matching an older, weathered color isn't always perfect, and we'll be straight with you about that before we start.
How do I clean a vinyl fence?
A garden hose and mild soap for most of it; a soft brush on the two spots that collect grime — the bottom rail and anywhere it's shaded and damp enough to green up. No pressure washer needed, and no staining or sealing, ever.
Get the vinyl fences conversation started.
Free 20-minute inspection. Photo report you keep either way. Zero pressure.