Roofing & Exterior
Where the Wall Meets the Window Is Where It Leaks
Rotted trim, sills, jambs, and thresholds around your windows and doors, repaired and re-flashed so water stops getting behind the wall. The openings are where the envelope fails first.
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Signs to watch
Is this you?
Soft, dark, or crumbling trim and sills
Poke the wood at the bottom corner of a window and if it gives, water's been sitting there. Sills and the trim below them rot first because that's where water pools.
Stains or peeling paint below a window
A stain or blistered paint under an opening is water that got past the flashing and is running down inside the wall. The drip is rarely under the actual leak.
Drafts, sticking doors, or gaps at the frame
When a door starts sticking or you feel air at the jamb, the frame may be swelling, rotting, or shifting as water works on it. It's a moisture signal, not just wear.
Old or missing flashing at the opening
Lots of PNW homes were built or re-sided without proper head and sill flashing. That gap is a slow leak on a timer, whether or not you can see damage yet.
Your options
Fix the wood, correct the flashing, stop the source
We replace rotted trim, sills, jambs, and thresholds around windows and doors, then fix the real problem behind them: the flashing and weather barrier that let water in to begin with. Head flashing over the opening, a sloped and flashed sill pan under it, proper integration with the housewrap, and sealed, painted trim to finish. Just swapping the rotted board without correcting the flashing means you'll be doing it again — the water has to be sent back out, not just covered up.
The method
How we do it
- 01
Trace the water, not just the rot
We open enough around the opening to see where water is getting in and how far it traveled into the framing. Photos of what we find.
- 02
Fixed-price repair quote
You see the scope and approve the number before we cut anything out.
- 03
Repair, re-flash, and seal
Rotted wood replaced, head and sill flashing corrected and tied into the weather barrier, then trim sealed and painted to blend. Before/after photos for your records.
Straight numbers
What frame repair actually costs
We quote fixed prices, not open-ended labor. What moves the number: how far the rot spread into the framing behind the trim, how many openings are involved, whether the flashing has to be rebuilt, and access and height. Caught early it's a modest repair; left until the framing and sheathing are gone it becomes a wall project — which is exactly why we open it up and show you before quoting.
Where we do this work
Window & Door Frame Repair: straight answers
Can you repair the frame without replacing the whole window or door?
Usually, yes. If the unit itself still operates and seals, we can replace the rotted trim, sill, and jamb wood and correct the flashing around it. If the rot has reached the unit or the framing behind it, we'll show you the photos and lay out both paths honestly.
Why does the wood around my windows keep rotting?
Almost always missing or failed flashing. If there's no head flashing shedding water over the opening and no sill pan sending it back out, rain works into the trim and framing every wet season. Replacing the wood without fixing that just resets the clock.
How do I know if it's just trim or something worse behind it?
You often can't from the outside — that's why we open a small area to check the sheathing and framing before quoting. Soft trim over dry framing is a quick fix; soft trim over wet, rotted sheathing is a bigger one. We'd rather find out first than surprise you mid-job.
Will you match the existing trim and paint?
Yes. We match the trim profile and blend the paint into the surrounding finish so the repair reads as part of the house, not a patch. We'll show you the match before we call it done.
Get the window & door frame repair conversation started.
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